[Translation of the original article “Las 15 maravillas de la provincia de Tarragona” by Mari Carmen Duarte, National Geographic Travel, 29 January 2024]
Tarragona province (southern Catalonia) holds many charms, some of which are yet to be discovered beyond its borders. Overshadowed somewhat by the attractions of Aragon and the Valencian Community, Tarragona will surprise visitors with its wines and cuisine, its natural landscapes, beaches and beech forests, medieval villages, sublime monasteries, and remnants of past eras.
Areas of nature with old-world villages and spectacular views include Parc Natural dels Ports, Miravet on the Ebro River, Horta de San Joan (associated with Picasso), the Prades mountains, and Siurana. Coastal areas include the lagoons, marshes, and islands of the Ebro Delta Biosphere Reserve, a haven for birds, and the fishing village of Ametlla de Mar, with its beautiful beaches and pristine coves. Various museums can be visited in the Roman city of Tarragona, the Modernist city of Reus (birthplace of Gaudí), and the unique Renaissance city of Tortosa, while the Pau Casals Museum in El Vendrell, candidate for the European Museum of the Year 2024, celebrates music and peace. Truly worthwhile visits, for both the buildings themselves and their landscapes, are the Cistercian monastery of Santa Maria de Poblet, a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1992, and the Carthusian monastery of Escala Dei, currently being extensively renovated. Finally, Tarragona province’s rich wine and culinary traditions are encapsulated in the renowned Priorat vineyards, the Modernist architecture of numerous “wine cathedrals”, and a cuisine that reflects a rich cultural heritage and diversity of landscapes.
TARRAGONA AMONG MONUMENTS
In the heart of Tarragona, Roman ruins stand as silent witnesses to a glorious past. The archaeological ensemble of Tarraco, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, is one of the most extensive preserved remnants of Roman Hispania. From the oldest vestiges, the city walls, to the most recent, Centcelles necropolis, there are landmarks like the amphitheatre, the Roman circus, the Devil’s Bridge aqueduct, and nearby, the Mèdol quarry and the Roda de Barà arch.
Located on the highest point in Tarragona, where a Roman army barracks and an imperial Roman cult area once stood, is the Cathedral of Santa Tecla—a Gothic symbol of the Middle Ages and, consecrated in 1331, considered Catalonia’s first cathedral. Inside the cathedral, visitors can admire the stained glass windows and sculptures, the Treasure Room, the beautiful cloister, and the history of the Rat Procession, sculpted in one of its corners.
MIRAVET, EBRO’S FORTRESS
Beyond the beautiful view of Miravet, perched on a bend in the Ebro River, and the imposing 12th-century castle that was the last Templar bastion, this small town has much to offer: from the tranquillity of its surroundings, surrounded by orchards, to a stroll through its cobbled streets lined with small houses, to climbing to the top to admire the two horizons where the river disappears.
Its charming architecture is reflected in the beauty of buildings like the Old Church, with Renaissance charm bestowed by the Order of the Hospital Brothers, adorned with Baroque paintings and an altar from one of the castle stones. After being looted and destroyed in the Civil War, it was recovered as a cultural centre—a charming place from which some of the landing stages that dot the Ebro can be seen, offering a backdrop for water activities.
HORTA DE SANT JOAN
The interior of the province also has well kept secrets, and one of them is the small town of Horta de Sant Joan, known not only for its natural beauty but also for its historical heritage and unique connection with the renowned painter Pablo Picasso. There’s nothing like strolling through the streets around the arcaded square of Sant Salvador de Horta and the square of the Parish Church of San Juan Bautista, location of the town hall with its old prison and several arcaded houses, such as Casa del Habanero, Casa Pepo, and Casa Pascualet.
Pablo Picasso was well aware of the charm of the town when he arrived there to find refuge and creative inspiration—a challenge that was not difficult given the beauty of the mountainous landscapes and the orchards, leading him to return ten years after his first visit. His time there was so prolific that the Picasso Centre is now one of the town’s major points of interest, displaying his works, housing some of his personal belongings, and serving as the starting point for a route that shows visitors the places that fascinated him the most.
PARC NATURAL DELS PORTS
The Catalan part of the Ports Massif, shared by Catalonia, Valencia, and Aragon, with its 35,050 hectares and wild nature was declared a natural park (Parc Natural dels Ports) in 2001. Located between the regions of Baix Ebre, Montsià, and Terra Alta, its rugged shapes and two climates attest to its rich biodiversity. Inside is one of its most special places, the Partial Natural Reserve of Les Fagedes dels Ports, with monumental beech trees, like Faig Pare, aged over 250 years.
In this massif, at the foot of which charming villages like Arnes or Horta de Sant Joan are located, caves, gorges, and sinkholes abound due to the passage of time and the Matarraña River. The area is well known among sports enthusiasts, with routes for hikers and cyclists, and the opportunity to enjoy caving or routes like that following the footsteps of Panxampla, a popular bandit of the Ebro Lands.
ESCALADEI
In the municipality of Morera de Montsant, protected by the mountain range that bears its name, lies the small town of Scala Dei, where a congregation of the Carthusian monastery once lived. The monks of the Carthusian Order, who arrived there in the 12th century from Provence, founded the first Carthusian monastery on the Iberian Peninsula. The location, chosen due to a shepherd’s vision of angels ascending a staircase, was henceforth named Escaladei (Staircase of God).
For seven centuries, the monks cared for flocks and gardens, built mills, planted vines, and made wine in their cellars, setting the precedent for the DOCQ Priorat, whose territory largely corresponds to the region governed by the prior (hence its name). The three cloisters, the church, and the refectory, as well as the reconstruction of a cell, can be visited today, making the stay in one of the town’s best-kept secrets, the Hotel Terra Dominicata, even more enjoyable.
VINEYARDS OF PRIORAT
Priorat, whose winemaking tradition began with the Charterhouse of Escaladei, is one of the two DOCQs in Spain and a region of great prestige in terms of the quality of its wines. The nine municipalities it encompasses are Bellmunt del Priorat, Gratallops, El Lloar, La Morera de Montsant, Poboleda, Porrera, Torroja del Periorat, La Vilella Alta and La Vilella Baixa, in addition to a part of Falset and El Mola — totalling 17,633 hectares, of which only 2088 have vineyards. This is because the slate soil and the terrain make cultivation challenging and the production relatively low.
Among the classic Garnacha and Cariñena varieties, the wineries also plant Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Merlot, and the experimental varieties Garnacha Peluda and Peluda Blanca. Numerous prestigious wine producers have their origins in Priorat, giving the region a global reputation. To appreciate this, there’s nothing like a visit to the Cooperativa de Gratallops or following a wine route to discover the secrets of the oldest wine region in Catalonia.
EBRO DELTA, HAVEN FOR BIRDS
The passage of the Ebro River through the province of Tarragona leaves behind landscapes that are as fascinating as they are diverse. However, there’s one place that stands out, not only for its natural beauty but also for the large number of bird species that find refuge there. The Ebro Delta, a Biosphere Reserve, boasts 7802 hectares, with lagoons, marshes, and islands that are home to a wide variety of birds. Flamingos, herons, ospreys, and many others inhabit this natural paradise.
The Ebro Delta is a must for bird watchers and nature lovers. There are several observation points, such as Punta del Fangar, where you can enjoy breathtaking views of the Delta. Boat trips are also available to explore the Delta from a different perspective. The area is also known for its rice fields, and the local cuisine features delicious rice dishes.
TARRAGONA CULINARY DELIGHTS
The cuisine of Tarragona is a reflection of its rich cultural heritage and diverse landscapes. From the coast to the mountains, you’ll find a variety of flavours and ingredients that make the local gastronomy a true delight. Seafood, olive oil, wine and traditional dishes are highlights of Tarragona’s culinary scene.
Start your culinary journey with a taste of “xató,” a traditional salad with cod, tuna, and a special sauce made with almonds and hazelnuts. For seafood lovers, the region offers an abundance of fresh fish and shellfish. “Suquet de peix,” a fisherman’s stew, is a must-try dish. The local olive oil, often used in cooking and dressings, adds a distinctive flavour to many dishes.
Wine enthusiasts will appreciate the local vintages, especially those from the Priorat region. The wines produced in this area are known for their quality and unique character. Don’t miss the opportunity to visit a winery and sample some of the finest wines Catalonia has to offer.
TORTOSA AND THE RENAISSANCE
The capital of the Baix Ebre region experienced a period of great prosperity during the 16th century, thanks to its strategic location that propelled it economically and socially. It became a significant cultural and artistic centre during the Renaissance, reaching its peak expression in Catalonia. Artists from all over Europe were drawn to this city. Apart from literary achievements, such as by Cristòfor Despuig, Tortosa excelled in architecture, notably in the ensemble of the Royal Colleges.
To appreciate the city’s heritage, one of the best ideas is to follow a route starting at the complex founded by Charles V, consisting of three buildings. The next stop is the Episcopal Palace and the Cathedral of Santa Maria, where important elements like the reliquary of Sant Eulali and the Choir Stalls can be found. The journey can continue with a visit to the Church of San Domingo or the House of the General Council. However, one of the best ways to experience the Renaissance in the city is during its mid-July festival, featuring a historical reenactment of the era with typical costumes, shows, and other cultural activities.
WINE CATHEDRALS
Cooperative wineries and associations played a crucial role in the revival of Catalan winemakers after the phylloxera epidemic, a period when modernism was in vogue. These “wine cathedrals,” a term coined by the playwright Àngel Guimerà, are scattered throughout Tarragona, designed by notable architects such as Gaudí’s disciple Cèsar Martinell, Josep Puig i Cadafalch, and Pere Domènech i Roura.
The first cooperative winery in the country, built in 1989, was in Barberà de la Conca, where Martinell created a modernist winery. In the same region, you’ll find l’Espluga de Francolí, hosting the Wine Museum, Roquefort de Queralt, one of the largest and most spectacular wineries, and those in Montblanc, Pira, and Sarral. In Alt Camp, you’ll discover Nulles, Vila-Rodona, Cabra del Camp, Aiguamúrcia, Alió, Santes Creus, and Pla de Santa Maria. However, it’s in Terra Alta where some of the most spectacular wineres are located, such as those of Gandesa, one of Catalonia’s wonders, and Pinell de Brai, with significant architectural value.
SANTA MARIA DE POBLET
At the heart of medieval Catalonia lies the architectural complex surrounded by nature, the Royal Monastery of Santa Maria de Poblet, a historical and cultural symbol still inhabited by Cistercian monks. Considered one of the most representative of the Royal Monastery Route of Catalonia and declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1992, the building dates back to the 14th century, although actually founded in 1129. The complex includes the church of Santa Maria, a Gothic-style cloister, and the chapter house.
The spaces within the complex are enclosed by three concentric walls, accessed through portals leading to different parts of the monastery. Notable among them are the Golden Gate, leading to the chapel of Sant Jordi and the Hospital of the Poor, and the Baroque Gate, providing access to the basilica. In the Gothic-style Royal Palace, a museum displays valuable sacred artworks, and visitors can explore the Museum of Restoration and the monks’ quarters and winery. The monastery also offers accommodation services, along with two archives and an extensive documentary collection.
PRADES
Walking through the medieval town of Prades, surrounded by nature, gives the feeling of living isolated from the world. The “red village,” as it is popularly known for the stone used in its construction, has streets and alleys that recount stories of the ancient county. The arcaded square is one of the most beautiful places in the town, featuring the church, a beautiful Renaissance fountain, and restaurants and places to rest while admiring the architectural richness, including the remains of the castle, the defensive tower, the walls, and the old sanatorium of the Casa del Carme.
Various nearby natural attractions entice many visitors to Prades, such as the hermitage of l’Abellera, a small temple embedded in the rock next to a cliff where you can enjoy views of the Brugent Valley. For the more adventurous, activities like canyoning are available, and astronomical observation for those who wish to view a sky full of stars. The Roca Foradada, one of the most well-known places in the mountain range surrounding Prades, can be reached on an easy 1.5-km route and offers a picnic area next to a lake.
PAU CASALS MUSEUM
Cellist, conductor, composer, humanist and a staunch advocate of freedom and democracy, Pau Casals is one of the most universal names in music and peace. He has put the town of El Vendrell, the capital of Baix Penedès, on the map. The Pau Casals Museum, a candidate for the European Museum of the Year 2024, is located in the summer house that the artist built on Sant Salvador beach. It offers insights into his life, human legacy, and artistic heritage through objects, memories, and artworks.
The museum also hosts activities and exhibitions for all audiences throughout the year. Visitors can also explore the neoclassical-style garden adjacent to the main building, where a restaurant and a shop are also located. Across from Vil·la Casals, as the locals know the museum, stands the Pau Casals Auditorium, which the musician commissioned so as to fulfil his wish of bringing music and culture to all. In the town centre, away from the coast, you can also visit his birthplace, and explore the places he frequented during his youth.
AMETLLA DE MAR BEACHES
A total of 20 kilometres of coastline make up the beautiful beaches and pristine coves of the small fishing village of l’Ametlla de Mar. Its reputation as one of the best places in Catalonia for a swim is due to several factors, including certified water quality and low waste concentration. Four of its beaches have the Blue Flag: Cala Calafató, only 15 metres wide; Cala Forn; Playa de l’Alguer, along the town’s promenade; and Playa Sant Jordi, next to the castle of the same name.
However, other beaches that attract sun and sea lovers are those displaying the Green Flag certifying minimal intervention in nature. Among them are Cala de l’Illot, Cala de Pixavaques, Cala Llenya, and Cala Port Olivet. Both naturists and pet owners have reserved spaces. In some, with more challenging access, such as Cala del Cementiri and Cala Ambròsia, you can enjoy views of Posidonia under clear waters.
SIURANA
Clinging to a small plain outlined by rocks, the tiny village of Siurana is much more than stone houses, a Romanesque church, and clean air. The views of its surroundings, including of the Prades mountains and the Montsant range, are unique. It’s no wonder that it was once considered impregnable, requiring the knights of four counts to subdue it, making it the last bastion of the reconquest of Catalonia.
Remnants of the Saracen fortress are still on view at the village entrance. The horseshoe imprint in the rock where Queen Abdelazia leaped to avoid submission to the Christians can be observed at the El Salto de la Reina Mora. At the foot of the rock where the village stands, you can also enjoy attractions such as kayaking on the reservoir, rock climbing, mountain biking or hiking.
MODERNIST REUS
Strolling through the capital of Baix Camp, visitors are likely to come across facades attempting, unsuccessfully, to blend in with the city’s architectural fabric. About 80 buildings in Reus are catalogued as vestiges of Modernism, a vast historical and artistic heritage identifiable not only by their splendour but also by a plaque indicating their name, architect, and year of construction—a route accessible to anyone. Reus, the birthplace of Antoni Gaudí, and the presence of his collaborators, has an aesthetic character that is now one of its major distinctions.
Some of the most emblematic buildings in the town are in the historical centre of medieval Reus, such as the Casa Navàs by Lluis Domènech i Montaner, Casa Serra by Joan Rubió, and Casa Marco by Pere Domènech. Away from the nucleus are Casa Rull, a Cultural Asset of National Interest, and the unique Antituberculosis Dispensary by Joan Rubió. It’s also worth visiting the artist’s birthplace and some of the places he frequented during his youth. Just outside Reus is the Pere Mata Institute, a hospital designed by Lluís Domènech i Montaner, which predates Hospital Sant Pau of Barcelona and has a similar structure.
CONCLUSION
Tarragona, often overshadowed by its more famous neighbours, has much to offer for those willing to explore its hidden treasures. From ancient Roman ruins to picturesque villages, natural wonders, and a rich culinary heritage, this province in southern Catalonia is a gem waiting to be discovered. Whether you’re interested in history, nature, or gastronomy, Tarragona has something to offer every traveller. So, pack your bags and embark on a journey to uncover the beauty and charm of Tarragona, a province that invites you to explore its diverse and captivating landscapes.
